The lightweight plastic and composite construction of the Harman Titan pinhole camera (made by Walker Cameras) looked like it would be the perfect candidate for a donor camera. Upon closer examination, I found the distance from the end of the cone to the film plane was a perfect match for a 65mm f/8 Super Angulon. While there are sharper and faster options out there, the old school, single coated f/8 SA has a unique look that makes the extra effort of shooting sheet film again totally worth it. The perfect balance of sharpness and falloff, at f/22 this lightweight lens is gorgeous lens for a 4x5 wide angle point and shoot.
Since the camera would be primarily be shot hand held, I made a grip from some aluminum tubing that I covered with adhesive shrink tube for added grip. Two bolts secure the grip through the cone of the camera. I added some black adhesive caulk to ensure a tight fit with the zero wobbling and finished it with a Canon hand strap. Since you load the film holders and operate the lens with your right hand the hand grip and strap on the left side is nice.
Not planning on using a any of the interchangeable lens cones that are available for this camera, I used the black adhesive caulk to secure and strengthen its mount to the camera. Lastly, the entire inside of the lens cone was covered with the same paper backed flocking that I use on almost every camera I build. It helps keep the camera light tight but more importantly reduces internal reflections.
To keep the camera from noseing over an 100mm Arca Swiss plate was mounted perpendicular to the camera.
I found a beautifuly clean black late model single coated Super Angulon set in a 0 shutter. The only drawback to the larger 0 shutter (a double aught is a near perfect fit) is you will need to carve out the front of the lens cone for it to fit. I was a little worried that it would weaken the front of the camera but it turned out to be quite rigid. The lens was finished with a Canon W-50 shade from the Canon 35mm f/1.5 LTM, that needed a good amount of work with the Dremel and a hand file to cut pedals into the sides but It's compact size is a good match for the camera.
For my tests I used an older Russian 20mm finder but ultimately wanted a brighter and more contrasty finder. After some late night scouring of the web, I found a Zeiss finder from the Contax 21mm f/2.8 at Used Photo Pro, the fantastic used camera arm of Roberts Camera at an equally fantastic price. It had some scratches on its titanium finish but the glass was clean, after a bit of steel wool and a couple coats of satin black paint it looked like it was made for the camera. As I've done on other cameras, I used a dab or two of the black adhesive caulk on the accessory shoe to make sure the finder stays affixed to the camera while it being stuffed in and out of bags and backpacks.
To finish off the camera, an older wooden film holder was cut out and the center was replaced with a piece of ground glass to serve as a proper focusing screen. Mostly for times you were on sticks and wanted to compose your images more deliberately but to be 100% honest, the camera feels so good handheld, the ground glass adapter rarely gets used. It is nice to have the option if need be.
The entire conversion is pretty straightforward and you end up with a compact little camera that yields gorgeous 4x5s. So far I've mostly been using Provia but I'm super excited to get 25 sheets of CineStill 800T later this summer. If you wanna build one and have any questions feel free to reach out, I'll try to help however I can.
I have a super lightweight 4x5 field camera with moments in the works, but it might be a while till its done and posted. With my new position with (the greatest camera company in the world) Canon USA this will be most likely be my last camera and my last post for a while. Canon is getting most of my attention these days.
Thanks for looking!
Greetings from Maryland; you might remember me from the Lenox Laser Digital Pinhole Symposium. I like my Harman Titan too much to turn it in to something else. You say that a double aught shutter "is a near perfect fit" Does this mean that with a 00 shutter I could swap out the pinhole & the lens? I like the idea of making the same shot on 4x5 with pinhole & lens. Thanks, Bob EReplyDelete
It's been a while since I made this but do seem to remember that you need to shave just a tad off to get it to fit. Also the pinhole mount isn't really designed to be removed and replaced. It's too bad as the Harmon camera is SUPER cool in my opinion. I'd love to figure out a way to put a proper ground glass on the camera.
I do have another Globoscope 4x5 with a back if you ar interested if you are interested.
I'm curious about the Globoscope but expect it will be too rich for me. Best if you could pm me on Facebook. I'm thinking about making a five sided box out of cigar box wood and backing it up to a film carrier with gaffer tape. I think I could figure out a way to fix a lens board & calculate the size of the box for whatever lens I get and come out with a point and shoot for, say, 15 feet to infinity. I'd like to take the same shots with a lens & my pinhole. And by the way, thanks for the tip on the finder. I got an Israeli one on eBay & it should improve my pinhole composition. BobDelete
Hello, you tried if it works? The focus is correct? I have 2 SA 65 f8 and while I want to try this combination. You have something to show? Thanks, MarceloReplyDelete
The focus is dead on, I can send you a couple jpgs tonight if you want to see them. What's your email address?Delete
the pinhole is removed and "shaved" and the SA 65 is mounted, so easy? Thank you very much, this is a dream for me.
I want to make a ground glass holder out of a 4x5 film holder, any tips, tricks, things to look for? thanks!
Here is what I did, it kinda depends on the film holder you are using but this should get you started in the right direction. If you have a lens board w/o a lens, mount that on the front of a view camera and and put your 'donor film holder' in the camera back.
Then I slid a piece of decent size dowel rod throug the lens board opening until it landed squarely on the film holder with the dark slide removed. Mark it with a fine point sharpie, sharp pencil or even an exact-o knife, you just need to be able to rely on it to make sure you get the ground glass in the right spot.
The older wooden holder that I used allowed form the metal sleeves that hold the film in place to be pulled out and then I was able to seperate out the thin wooden divider septum without breaking the holder. I dug through my 'random parts and glass' bins until a found a decent sized ground glass that can be used (or cut down).
I ended up epoxying two really thin wooden strips to the top and bottom of the holder which allowed the glass to lay on it and then used a super thin bead of adheasive caulk around the glass to hold it securely in place. Use your dowel rod before you caulk or epoxy in place to make sure you are going to secure the ground glass in the right plane to ensure decent focus.
Certainly shoot a critical focus test before relying on it for anything important.
Let me know if you have any other questions, hope this helps!